How To Install Shimano Acera Rear Derailleur

This How-To tin be used on road bikes with Shimano rear derailleurs whether you are installing a new derailleur or adjusting your dysfunctional derailleur. This guide can be used on well-nigh Shimano derailleurs with some pocket-sized variance on some models but the principle of installing and adjustments are the same.

If you are looking at tuning your shifting functioning or to re-index your gears or performing a maintenance on your rear derailleur, disconnect your gear cablevision, turn in your butt adjustment and spring on to Footstep 2.

Tools require for the Installation of rear derailleur

Torque wrench
Allen key
Screw driver - Philips head
bike stand (rear wheel need to be off the basis while adjusting)

Step 1: Mountain the rear derailleur to the derailleur hanger on your bike. Before you tighten the bracket spindle, brand certain that the B-tension spiral is non scraping your derailleur hanger. Use a five mm Allen central to tighten the bracket spindle bolt, exercise not over tighten the bolt, only tighten enough for the derailleur to stay on.

Use the torque wrench, Shimano recommends 8-x Nm, I fix mine to nine Nm. Tighten the bolt until your torque wrench clicks.

Then feed the gear cable from the shifters all the way down to the derailleur only don't secure the cable to the derailleur just still.

Step two: Set the guide pulley to your smallest sprocket. The guide pulley on the rear derailleur should line up with your smallest cassette sprocket. To adjust this, use a Phillips head spiral driver to turn the acme aligning screw, also known as the loftier adjustment, y'all will run across a piddling `H` next to the screw. Turning the screw clockwise will motion the pulley inward (towards the wheel spokes ) and turning the screw anti-clockwise will move the pulley outwards (abroad from the wheel spokes ). Utilize your sight, line your pulley just below your smallest sprocket.

Stride 3: Once y'all have your guide pulley lined up, you can connect your gear cable. Pull the gear cable and feed it through the grove on your rear derailleur. Please note that not all models have the same cable clamping way, cheque on the Shimano website to be sure or attempt to look for the grove. The cable tension is simply done past hand, y'all don't demand to pull it with pliers or pull it with a wrench, only agree the finish of the cable with one paw and utilise the other paw to tighten down the clamping bolt with an Allen key. You tin can also apply a torque wrench to tighten the commodities down to about 6Nm.

Stride four: Once your gear cable is connected, shift your derailleur to the largest sprocket. If your derailleur is sitting at the second largest sprocket but you lot can't shift your gears whatever farther, adapt the barrel adjuster by increasing the cable tension, this will motion the guide caster to the largest sprocket. Arrange the low aligning spiral, the screw with `L` marked next to it. Turning the spiral clockwise volition move the caster outwards (abroad from the wheel spokes ) and turning the spiral anti-clockwise will move the caster inwards (towards the wheel spokes). Line up the pulley guide but below the largest sprocket.

Step 5: Arrange the B-tension screw, B-tension screw adjusts the guide caster up and down, bringing information technology closer or abroad from the cassette.

Shift to the smallest chain-band and the largest sprocket on your cassette. Turning the B-tension screw clockwise volition motility the guide pulley away from the sprocket and turning the screw anti-clockwise will motion the guide pulley closer to the sprocket. Turn the B-tension screw just plenty and so that the pulley guide is as close to the largest sprocket equally possible but not scraping or jamming the concatenation as you lot pedal forwards and backwards.

Next, shift your gears to the largest concatenation-ring and the smallest sprocket on your cassette. Repeat the same spiral adjustments, adjust the B-tension spiral then the the chain does not jam or scrape the sprocket when you pedal forrad or backwards.

Step 6: Indexing of gears. The best trick is to shift your gears to the largest chain-ring and virtually the heart gear on your cassette (fifth gear on your cassette of if are running 10 speed). Plow your pedal forward and listen to the audio that your gears are making. Listen for the click or scraping sounds. If you can hear a click or scraping sound, check to meet if the chain is rubbing the gear higher up or below.

Looking from the dorsum of the wheel, if the chain is rubbing the sprocket to the left of your electric current position, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise. If your concatenation is rubbing on the correct sprocket, plow the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise. Brand sure you make very modest adjustments each turn, I recommend not more than 2 turns per adjustment. Once you have turned the butt adjuster, spin your pedal and listen for the rubbing or clicking sound again. If in that location is no sound then you are done. Shift through all the gears just to cheque if your chain makes a clicking audio on the eighth gear or the 2d gear, try to plow your barrel adjuster again. Footstep half-dozen is the hardest, you will need to spend some time to play with it until you get it right.

Stride 7: Once your gear is adjusted, cut your gear cable, leave about 4cm. Crimp your gear cablevision with a cable end crimp and you lot are done.